Image: Massimo Dutti NYC Autumn/Winter 2015
Now that summer’s pretty much been and gone and sale rails have been picked over, it’s time to start getting excited for the season to come.
Well, maybe not excited, but definitely equipped. With harsher weather on the horizon, we turn our attention to the major autumn/winter 2015 trends and break down what’s worth spending on to brave the elements while looking bang on-trend.
1. The Shearling Effect
Why? Because pretty much everyone, from Stuart Vevers at Coach to Brit brands Hackett and Burberry Prorsum, offered a take on this classic jacket. And because well-built outerwear is the single most important addition to your wardrobe once the leaves start to yellow and the breeze gets brisk.
Promising warmth (this is, after all, the sartorial equivalent of a sheepskin rug, faux or no) and an air of Steve McQueen, a shearling jacket looks just as handsome thrown over a simple T-shirt and jeans combo as it does a button-down Oxford and sweater pairing.
If you’re planning on getting involved, don’t skimp. Better ignore shearling altogether than pick up a subpar style that might save you a couple hundred quid but looks unmistakably bargain basement.
- J. CREW WALLACE & BARNES SHERPA-COLLAR ITALIAN LEATHER G-1 FLIGHT JACKETSHOPSHOPSHOP
- BELSTAFF NEW FALMOUTH LEATHER BIKER JACKETSHOPSHOPSHOP
- MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SHEARLING BIKER JACKETSHOPSHOPSHOP
- ACNE STUDIOS ABEL SHEARLING-TRIMMED LEATHER BOMBER JACKETSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TOMAS MAIER SHEARLING BOMBER JACKETSHOPSHOPSHOP
- BELSTAFF ASHWORTH SHEARLING-TRIMMED SUEDE BIKER JACKETSHOPSHOPSHOP
2. Keep It In Check
Even the most savvy sartorialist can find himself stumped when it comes to styling all-over busy prints and patterns. But this season, some designers are suggesting a more accessible take on visual impact, swapping digital prints for subtle checks.
Hackett and Dunhill layered check tailoring for a standout head-to-toe effect, while Hentsch Man and Shaun Samson took the trend to the street with grunge-inspired checked outerwear.
If you’re looking to break out of the metaphorical block-colour cell block, then checks are your best bet. Timeless and versatile, this pattern instantly adds interest to any outfit and works across everything from a casual plaid flannel shirt to smartly-cut separates.
- LIBERTINE LIBERTINE BOMBER JACKET MONO LARGE CHECKSHOPSHOPSHOP
- ASOS HARRIS TWEED OVERSHIRT WITH CHECKSHOPSHOPSHOP
- SISLEY CHECK SUIT JACKET IN SLIM FITSHOPSHOPSHOP
- HE BY MANGO SLIM-FIT MADRAS CHECK SHIRTSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TED BAKER SABINES TIGHT LINES CHECKED WOOL BLAZERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TED BAKER PIITRO CHECKED TONAL TROUSERSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- RIVER ISLAND RED CHECK ZIP THROUGH SHIRT JACKETSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TOPMAN GREY OVERSIZED CHECK STRETCH SKINNY CHINOSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TOPMAN SELECTED HOMME BROWN AND BLUE CHECK TROUSERSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- A.P.C. BUTTON DOWN CHECK SHIRT MULTICOLOURSHOPSHOPSHOP
- ETRO UNSTRUCTURED CHECK WOOL-BLEND BLAZERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- OUTERKNOWN HEMISPHERE WINDOWPANE CHECK WOOL-BLEND PEACOATSHOPSHOPSHOP
3. Got Green?
To say military’s trending in menswear is a bit like branding the Pope a Catholic: from cuts to utilitarian details, battlefield uniforms have come to set the foundation of the contemporary wardrobe.
But this season it wasn’t buttoned cuffs and epaulettes that strengthened the military-menswear bond, but the colour of fatigues themselves.
Whether olive drab or hunter, fern or artichoke, subdued shades of green were worked across everything from technical tailored pieces (Christophe Lemaire) to smart-casual separates (Michael Kors).
With shades to suit every skin tone, green’s worth putting at the core of your cold-weather looks. Use it to pull together neutrals like black, beige and grey, or pair it with complementary colours like burgundy and navy.
For more formal looks, try emerald and jade for a little opulence that will catch eyes but won’t raise eyebrows.
- POLO RALPH LAUREN OXFORD SHIRT IN SLIM FITSHOPSHOPSHOP
- ASOS BOMBER JACKET WITH ASYMMETRIC ZIP IN GREENSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TOPMAN OLIVE GRID STITCH CREW NECK JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TOPMAN KHAKI RELAXED TAPERED CHINOSHOPSHOPSHOP
- RIVER ISLAND DARK GREEN SMART DOUBLE BREASTED TRENCH COATSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TOPMAN KHAKI ROLL NECK JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- ACNE STUDIOS ACE SKINNY-FIT COTTON-BLEND CORDUROY TROUSERSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- FOLK LOOPBACK COTTON-JERSEY SWEATSHIRTSHOPSHOPSHOP
- BARBOUR KIRKTOWN CABLE CREW NECK OLIVE MARLSHOPSHOPSHOP
- UNIQLO MEN PACKAGED DRY CREW NECK SHORT SLEEVE T-SHIRTSHOPSHOPSHOP
- RIVER ISLAND GREEN SMART WOOL-BLEND PEACOATSHOPSHOPSHOP
- RIVER ISLAND GREEN FLANNEL LONG SLEEVE SHIRTSHOPSHOPSHOP
4. Keep Rollin’
Rakishly elegant, supremely comfortable and extremely easy to dress up and down, this simple piece of knitwear is arguably the hardest worker in your wardrobe.
With variations on the theme provided by Margaret Howell, Kris Van Assche, Kenzo and more this autumn/winter, it’s hard to imagine we only re-discovered the roll neck a few seasons back.
Choose from thin or thick gauges, plain colour or vividly patterned. Use yours in place of a shirt under a suit for a debonair take on tailoring (thin gauge recommended), or team with a simple pair of well-cut wool trousers and trainers for an off-duty ensemble that still looks luxe.
- HE BY MANGO STAND-COLLAR MERINO WOOL SWEATERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- BEN SHERMAN PEAT GREEN ROLL-NECK SHIRTSHOPSHOPSHOP
- SELECTED HOMME TURTLE NECK JUMPER WITH FLECKSHOPSHOPSHOP
- BURTON DARK GREEN ROLL NECK JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- RIVER ISLAND ECRU CHUNKY ROLL NECK JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TOPMAN CAMEL ROLL NECK JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- JOHN SMEDLEY RICHARDS MERINO WOOL ROLL NECK JUMPER PORTSHOPSHOPSHOP
- CHARCOAL MERINO ROLL NECK JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- GIEVES & HAWKES ROLL-NECK FINE-KNIT SWEATERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- JOHN SMEDLEY BELVOIR MERINO WOOL ROLLNECK SWEATERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- ETRO SLIM-FIT CABLE-KNIT WOOL ROLLNECK SWEATERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- HOWLIN MOONCHILD ROLL NECK NAVYSHOPSHOPSHOP
5. Graphic Knitwear
Show your statement sweatshirt the door, gentlemen – it’s time to get acquainted with an all-new line-up of punchy knits.
Some were kitsch (Christopher Shannon’s intarsia plastic bag styles) and some were camo (Pringle of Scotland’s maroon/grey/beige/white option); autumn/winter 2015’s runways were awash with graphic knitwear, suggesting a new, much smarter alternative to the slogan-emblazoned sweatshirt that’s reigned supreme in recent seasons.
To really take this trend by the horns, opt for a multi-coloured style as the focal point of your look, surrounding your knit with comparatively sober pieces to really play up its effect. Alternatively, for something less attention-grabbing, try teaming a monochrome style (like Corneliani’s refined triangular take) with tonal pieces.
- ASOS JUMPER WITH AZTEC DESIGNSHOPSHOPSHOP
- EDWIN CREW JUMPER STROKE FINE KNIT JACQUARD STRIPESHOPSHOPSHOP
- NEXT RED CHECK CREWSHOPSHOPSHOP
- GANT JACQUARD CREW NECK JUMPER MULTISHOPSHOPSHOP
- TED BAKER BLUWALL OMBRE PATTERN WOOL JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- RIVER ISLAND ECRU WOVEN COLOUR BLOCK JUMPERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- TED BAKER CARGUY ZIGZAG PATTERN WOOL JUMPER DARK PURPLESHOPSHOPSHOP
- REISS BRUGE CONTRAST WEAVE JUMPER BLACK/OFF-WHITESHOPSHOPSHOP
- REISS CHURCH PRINTED LIGHTWEIGHT JUMPER BORDEAUXSHOPSHOPSHOP
- CHRISTOPHER KANE GEOMETRIC-INTARSIA KNITTED SWEATERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- SAINT LAURENT GEOMETRIC-INTARSIA WOOL SWEATERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- PS BY PAUL SMITH JUNGLE CAMO COTTON SWEATERSHOPSHOPSHOP
6. Leg Room
Yes, they’re here. Again. Roomier trews are – judging by designers’ offerings – set to make serious waves this season. But while other style bibles might be lauding them as the hero piece to start hauling, we say don’t bin your skinnies just yet.
Oliver Spencer, Vivienne Westwood Man and E. Tautz all widened their trouser styles’ widths, taking care to tweak appropriately in each case: Spencer’s came cuffed at the bottom and teamed with a duffle coat, Vivienne Westwood’s were cropped and worn with monk-straps, while E. Tautz offered a modern-day take on the zoot suit.
All a cakewalk to pull off if you’re a runway model, less so if you lean more towards mere mortal. Thankfully, labels like Joseph and the previously skinny-steering Versace showed takes that struck the balance between wearable and clown-like wide-legged.
If the idea of a little more legroom appeals, remember to always balance your bottom half’s size with a snug fit up top – a slim-cut shirt, thin gauge knit jumper, or both, for example.
- UNIQLO MEN REGULAR FIT SELVEDGE JEANSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- DICKIES 873 OLIVE GREEN SLIM STRAIGHT WORK TROUSERSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- GAP LIVED-IN STRAIGHT KHAKISHOPSHOPSHOP
- LEVIS 501 ORIGINAL BLUE BLACK JEANSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- J. CREW BROKEN-IN CHINO IN 1040 CLASSIC FITSHOPSHOPSHOP
- CHEAP MONDAY CHINOS WORKER STRAIGHT FIT WASHED NAVYSHOPSHOPSHOP
- ALLSAINTS NILE TROUSERSHOPSHOPSHOP
- BURTON GREY STRAIGHT JEANSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- LEVIS VINTAGE CLOTHING 1947 501 RINSED REGULAR-FIT SELVEDGE DENIM JEANSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- UNIQLO MEN VINTAGE REGULAR FIT CHINO FLAT FRONT TROUSERSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- AUSTIN REED WRINKLE FREE SAND CLASSIC CHINOSSHOPSHOPSHOP
- DOCKERS MARINA STRAIGHT TWILL TROUSERS DARK PEBBLESHOPSHOPSHOP
Half the battle in bulking up your wardrobe for autumn/winter is knowing exactly what to buy. Look to this shortlist of menswear’s latest moves for ways to wear fresh trends without looking try-hard.
Already decking yourself out in green? Or maybe a graphic knit is top of your shopping list?
Let us know which trends you’ll be trying on for size this season.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: CILLIAN O’CONNOR
With over eight years’ experience writing on men’s style, FashionBeans Features Editor Cillian O’Connor delves deep into men’s collections, sorting the wheat from the chaff to deliver seasonal trends and fail-safe style tips.
He has written for Metro, The Business of Fashion, The Irish Times and Canvas8, and has consulted for brands including Gillette and Dan Ward.